Alaska Backpacking | Arctic National Wildlife Refuge (ANWR)
Taiga to Tundra Backpack
PDF of Alaska Backpacking Adventure
• Dates: August 17-22, 2009. Can combine with our Fall in the Arctic Refuge (Canning River Raft) Aug 22 - Sept 1st for a 16 day adventure not to be forgotten. Call for special pricing.
• Region: Arctic National Wildlife Refuge, Northern edge of the boreal forest over the divide to the Canning River which flows into the Arctic Ocean.
• Cost: $2900 from Fairbanks.
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This year’s choice for perfect alpine conditions takes us to the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge, where the scenery is breathtaking and the walking is easy (by Brooks Range standards). We’ll start on the south side of the Continental Divide in the Chandalar River watershed at about 3,000’ elevation. High quality alpine conditions prevail all the way across the Divide and into the Canning River watershed. The area we’ll walk through is within the designated Wilderness portion of the Arctic Refuge. It’s a region of steep limestone mountains and clear water creeks, more than 50 miles from the nearest village. Some peaks along the way are pushing 7,000’. We’ll undertake this trip at the beginning of autumn. Fall colors will deepen throughout the trip and blueberries should be prime. The daylight is still long, but we’ll have enough “dark” each day to possibly see the Aurora Borealis. Among other wildlife, we have good chances of seeing grizzly bears, wolves, some bull caribou, Golden Eagles, Dall sheep, and foxes.
This is a relatively easy backpack for the arctic. We’ll travel just under 30 miles in seven days. The route is an easy one in terms of elevation gain and the terrain covered, but there will be some long days and we’ll need to cross creeks from time to time. Starting on the south side of the Brooks Range, we’ll find ourselves initially at the northern edge of tree-line. The walking is pretty good, but we get into some sedge tussocks (wobbly, wet walking). Soon, though, we’re on dry terrain that will continue the rest of the way. The scenery is spectacular with rugged colorful peaks and soft green valleys.
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Weather this time of year is often cool and overcast, though we can get some awesome clear weather. Precipitation is generally light, and it’s fairly easy to keep comfortably dry. Because it’s the arctic, however, snow is always possible and you can expect temperatures to range from the 30s to the 60s. Because of the cool weather, mosquitos should be absent, the tundra colorful and caribou should be in there beautiful brown fall coats.
Hiking in the arctic is an “off-trail” experience, so a six-mile day can take as long and be as taxing as ten miles in other parts of the world. Experience backpacking is recommended for this trip, but novices in decent shape would enjoy the trip too. Each hiker will get 15-20 pounds of food and community gear to carry, due to the small party size and the trip’s duration, expect to start the trip with a pack weighing no less than 45 pounds.
What follows is a forecast of the trip, a general idea of the flow of events. As a forecast, it may be amended to meet conditions and opportunities in the field.
Day 1: Fly 350 miles north from Fairbanks, across the Yukon River and the Arctic Circle to the Gwich’in Athabascan village of Arctic Village, which sits alongside the Chandalar River. From Arctic Village, we board a smaller plane and carry-on up the Chandalar to a small tributary creek. Once the pilot leaves, we’re on our own. We’ll hike several miles to the first of many lovely camps. You’ll have the evening to settle into your surroundings, hike up a ridge or just stare at the awe-inspiring scenery.
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Days 2-6: Exceptional scenery will be the norm for the week. After the first day we will be north of the trees and the pass is devoid even of brush. Dall Sheep can be seen eking a living out of the craggy peaks, Bears and wolves use this same pass to move from one valley to the next. We will spend 5 or 6 hours a day carrying packs looking for animals and watching the mountains slowly pass by. After hiking each day and enjoying a hot meal there will be daylight enough for a leisurely hike to look around. There will be time for a layover day to explore side canyons sculpted by millions of years of snowmelt, or climb one of the many ridges for a long view of the Brook Range. Fall colors should be coming on pretty strong; it’s evidence of another season coming to an end in a flourish of rich color and scents before the hard season of white and dark sets in.
Day 7: Hike a short distance to meet our plane at a gravel airstrip on the banks of the Canning River. Fly back to Fairbanks or join the Canning River Raft trip and paddle towards the sea.
Included in the price of the trip: All air transportation beyond Fairbanks, all food while in the wilderness, stoves, cooking & eating utensils, bear spray canisters, safety & repair gear, and professional guide service.
Not included in the price of the trip: Lodging, non-camp meals, personal clothing, sleeping bag, sleeping pad, tent, backpack, boots, fishing gear, fishing license additional cost incurred from flight delays. A detailed equipment list is provided upon registration or request. Rentals are also available through Arctic Wild.
Suggested Reading: “Alaska National Wildlife Refuge” Alaska Geographic; “The Brooks Range,” Alaska Geographic; Alaska's Brooks Range John Kauffmann; Midnight Wilderness Debbie Miller; Arctic Dreams Barry Lopez; Caribou & the Barren-Lands George Calef; Earth & the Great Weather Kenneth Brower; National Geographic, Dec. 79; Audubon, May 88, July 76; Vanishing Arctic T. H. Watkins.