In Bob’s Footsteps – Gates of the Arctic

In Bob’s Footsteps – Gates of the Arctic

DATES

August 08, 2025 - August 23, 2025

REGION

Gates of the Arctic

TRIP COST

$$

calendar

DATES

August 08, 2025 - August 23, 2025
region

REGION

Gates of the Arctic
price

TRIP COST

$$

A swell trip into the heart of Gates of the Arctic. This three part journey has history, wilderness, and adventure as part of every single day. Walk in Bob Marshall’s footsteps!

TRIP DETAILS

Part 1: Wiseman is a lovely village on the banks for the Middle-fork of the Koyukuk River dubbed with the pseudonym “Arctic Village” in Bob’s wonderful prose. It is an oasis of hospitality in the Brooks Range and an ideal place from which to explore the history of the region.

The owners of the B and B where we stay are full of gripping stories of life in the north and make a beautiful breakfast. From this cozy base we can venture out each day into the surrounding hills. With a packed lunch and 20 hours of daylight we can see many of the places where Bob roamed. We won’t cover near as much ground as he could, but we can try.

The road to Nolan should be passible offering access into the high country. We can take a trip to Coldfoot and the National Park visitors center at some point too. And relaxing in Wiseman is always a good option too. Each day will unfold in its own way based on your desires, the weather, and serendipity.

Part 2: Starting at the limit of the great northern forests, the airplane lands us on the North Fork of the Koyukuk River between Boreal Mountain and Frigid Crags, the imposing peaks for which this 9 million acre national park was named. Clear waters of the river reflect the steely grey cliffs and the rich greens of the spruce, and a rainbow of colorful rocks shines in the riffles. The trip only gets better from here.

Walking is slow in the forest and packs are heavy at the start so it may take a portion of 2 days to backpack up the Koyukuk to the mouth of Ernie Creek where we will establish a multi-night camp and base for exploration. This is a great place to try and access some of Bob’s favorite haunts.

One day we can hike (without packs) up Ernie Creek looking for the cabin site and aiming for the Valley of the Precipices. Another foray will take us east and further up the Koyukuk towards Bombardment Creek and the magnificence of Mount Doonerak.

There are innumerable other places to explore and we will hike as much as you want, or as little as you please. returning to the camp each night and after several days of traipsing about the upper Koyukuk you’ll reload your backpack and return to the shadow of Frigid and Boreal to await the arrival of Dar, a second guide and the canoes.

Part 3: The Koyukuk’s clear waters meander through the broad valley in broad arcs carving cliffs in the mountains on the west side of the valley before turning tail and heading for the opposite mountainside. Patterned rocks of every color make up the gravel bars on the inside bends and spruce trees lean over and into the river on the outside bends. Your capable guides help you to keep the canoe in the smoothest and fastest water right down the middle and we let the Koyukuk pull us towards the sea.

It is about 60 miles from the “Gates” to where the North Fork joins the Middle Fork of the Koyukuk and another 20 river miles on the Middle Fork before arriving in Bettles. The river is swift and small at the start and each canoe will require a guide to steer it safely past trees and other obstacles. But below Bob’s famous Clear River and the Tinayguk confluence the paddling becomes more straightforward and the miles tick by without too much maneuvering. As you get into the lower river the current slows and you’ll have to paddle steadily to maintain speed and reach Bettles in a timely manner.

Along the way there are innumerable mountain views, surprise encounters with wildlife and lovely forested campsites along the river. You’ll spend 6 or 7 hours on the water each day which still leaves plenty of time for evening explorations in the woods or along the gravel bars. And of course the area is full of history and legend. This will be a great way to end the journey.

Last updated: March 4, 2025

Itinerary

What follows is a general flow of events. Expect the unexpected and prepare to be flexible.

August 8

Meet your guide in Fairbanks for a pre-trip meeting at 8 am. Once everyone is prepared for the trip we load the vehicle and begin the long drive north. The Dalton Highway is slow and largely unpaved with some heavy truck traffic, but it is too beautiful to rush through anyway so we take our time.

We can stop at the Yukon River and at Finger Mountain, and anywhere we see ripe blueberries. It is an 8 hour drive at a leisurely pace and we have all day.

Once we arrive in Wiseman our hosts show us to private cabins and we settle in for a few days.

 

August 9 - 11

Three full days to explore around Wiseman and Coldfoot. There are mountains to climb, relics to find and beautiful mountains all around.

We take breakfast with our hosts and cook dinner on our own, or we can go to the truck stop in Coldfoot if we want to experience the “real” Alaska.

With just one guide and one vehicle, and two people with divergent interests we will have to plan our days carefully.

August 12

After another great breakfast with our hosts we hear an airplane landing by the river and after loading backpacks we fly into Gates of the Arctic National Park! (while Dar drives back to Fairbanks at his own pace)

We land as close to the “Gates” as possible, but seeing as gravel bars change from year to year we don’t know exactly where the plane can safely land.

Once the plane leaves, we shoulder packs and begin the backpacking portion of the trip.

We will cover just a couple miles this first day and will make camp along the North Fork of the Koyukuk with stunning views (weather permitting) of Boreal and Frigid Crags.

August 13

You’ll backpack a total of 5 to 7 brushy, wet, trail-less miles from the landing area to the mouth of Ernie Creek over the course of a couple of days.

Once at Ernie Creek we can drop packs and pitch a cozy camp at the edge of the trees with a commanding view of the river. Your home in the wilderness for a few days. Rest your feet. Build a fire. Enjoy the silence.

August 14- 16

Travel becomes easier without 40 pounds on your shoulders. We have 3 full days to explore in Bob’s footsteps and nothing but daylight.

Where we choose to hike each day is up to you, and the weather. We will make the most of your time in Gates of the Arctic.

August 17

Break camp. Load packs. Descend the Koyukuk retracing the route you took several days earlier. Packs are lighter and the tundra more familiar so you can expect to make it back to the airstrip in a single go.

August 18

Mid-morning we hear the airplane and eagerly await the arrival of Dar, a second guide, and the canoes.

Once we have resupplied and reunited we don river gear, ready the boats, and let the current take us down river. The banks fly-by in comparison to hiking!

August 19 - 22

Canoe the Koyukuk. Each day brings its own surprises, challenges, and delights. 6 or 7 hours of canoeing will cover about 20 miles each day and leaves time for leisurely mornings and some time in the evening for explore the area around each camp.

If the weather is fair, the miles fly by. If it is windy and wet you will earn them.

August 23

Log cabins on the south bank of the Koyukuk betray the location of Bettles and welcome you back into the modern world.

After unloading the canoes and hitching a ride to the airstrip we meet the afternoon flight to Fairbanks arriving in time for a well deserved shower and a late dinner.

What a trip! Bob would be proud.

rafters having fun in the Arctic

Such a joy to spend days where time was meaningless.  A wonderful adventure and I would like to return next year for a longer, more challenging trip.

You mentioned to me in an email that you have terrific guides – you do indeed.  Dave is a superb guide. He is personable, knowledgeable about the Arctic, and has excellent group management skills. I appreciated the time he spent teaching me to read the map, which is not easy without trails.   He allowed Adrian and me to hike at our own pace and he encouraged all of us to explore the area surrounding our campsites. I know the others would concur in my praise.

- Sandra, California, USA

DETAILS

WHAT'S INCLUDED

Lodging in Wiseman

Transportation beyond Fairbanks

Food while in the wilderness

Stoves, cooking & eating utensils

Professional guides

Select Rental equipment is available through Arctic Wild and is included

WHAT'S NOT INCLUDED

Lodging beyond Wiseman

Non-camp meals

Personal clothing and gear per our Equipment List

Gratuity for guides

WEATHER & BUGS

A variety of weather should be expected including rainy periods and bright sunny conditions. Temperatures can range from in the 70’s down into the 30’s or lower. Snow is possible but unlikely to remain on the ground. Bug season is not yet over, so expect mosquitoes and gnats around. You should carry a head net and one bottle of insect repellent.

RECOMMENDED READING

Alaska Wilderness by Robert Marshall

Arctic Wild by Lois Crisler

Nunamiut by Helge Ingstadt

Make Prayers to the Raven, Richard Nelson

More Alaska reading is available from our Bookstore.

"The wilderness was spectacular, the leadership perfect."
"I am just finishing my tenth trip with you guys. As always, the trip was more than I expected and I had a great time. See you next year!"
"Of all outfitters with whom we have worked (and that is quite a number), you were by far the most organized and responsive."
"That feeling of wide open wonder, the possibilities for nearly limitless wandering, and the image of those proud caribou...that will stay with me a long time"
"Our guide was an encyclopedia on legs. He was always willing and ready to teach, to talk, to listen, to do another hike, or to lie low in camp if we were beat. He truly gave us the trip we wanted!"
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Eileen - Canning River