The Wind River, in the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge, offers the wilderness traveler a little of everything. Flowing clear from the peaks of the Brooks Range, we start high in the tundra, where the views are nearly endless and the mountains beckon exploration. We have a couple of days to enjoy the headwaters of this valley, embracing the last days of summer and the broad mountains all around.

As we raft down the middle and lower river, we descend, negotiating small rapids and entering the northern boreal forest. This enchanting forest is home to wildlife typical of arctic Alaska such as grizzly bears and caribou, as well as wildlife more typical of the great interior forests such as beaver, black bear, moose, and lynx. We float past rock faces striated in red, orange, gray, white, and black. Limestone mountains hang over the valley, providing striking contrast with the dark green forests.

These limestone mountains make for great hiking and are pocked with caves. These caves provide refuge for Dall sheep and in days past provided shelter for ancient human hunters too. Moose are exceptionally abundant in the lakes near the river. These clear lakes host migrating waterfowl, as well as northern pike and lake trout. Snowy, great gray and Northern hawk owls have been spotted here, along with many other arctic and boreal bird species.

Caribou from the Porcupine herd flow through the valley on their way south to wintering grounds each fall. If the timing of their migration coincides with our trip it is quite a sight. Along with the caribou come predators: wolves, grizzly bears, and if we are lucky, the elusive wolverine.

September is autumn in the arctic and a lovely time to be in the wilderness. We will have layover days to hike, fish, or just hang out. Well-drained slopes north of the river provide some excellent hiking opportunities; gradual ridges carry the adventurous hiker towards the peaks and spectacular views in all directions. We can find huge patches of blueberries and gorge ourselves like bears.

The river is alternately fast and rocky and calm and sandy. This is a moderately difficult river trip with several sections of Class II and III rapids, and stretches of standing waves and boulder gardens. In other areas the river splays out into uncountable channels and we will need to walk a short way before resuming our journey down river. It’s all part of the fun and adventure of wilderness travel. No experience is required for paddle rafting, as instruction is provided. Everyone joins in the fun of paddling the boats under the guidance of a raft captain.