In the far north of Alaska where the sun circles the June sky and trees seem like a distant memory, the Brooks Range rises from the coastal plain with ridge after rocky ridge. The ecotone where the mountains merge into the coastal plain attracts a variety of wildlife and this route winds through this scenic and productive part of the Arctic Refuge.
We start our trip near the northern edge of the Brooks Range where colorful ridges and cliffs of folded marine sediments tower above our camp. These are amongst the oldest rocks in the region, fossil-rich, and fascinating. With plenty of time to reach our final destination we can dawdle a bit here and climb into the high-country for a view north to the Arctic Ocean.
Soon enough we will shoulder packs, following caribou trails heading southeast deeper into the mountains. We follow the caribou trails etched into blooming hillsides and walk along the cobble bars crossing the creek and crossing again in search of the best footing. Dall sheep and bears are common in the high country and we may see small bands of caribou, mostly bulls following the same trails we walk upon.
Soon we cross the first pass of the trip. Though steep towards the top the footing is excellent and the views of both the high-peaks to the south and the sprawling coastal plain to the north will never be forgotten.
Once we gain the high-ground, we will stay at the top of the valleys, crossing numerous small passes and skirting around the lower and wetter areas, eventually dropping into the larger watersheds. Moose winter in these valleys and their sign is abundant. We may also see ptarmigan, red fox, wolf and if very lucky, wolverine. The area is very rarely visited by humans but there is lots of wildlife.
Eventually we climb out of the wildlife rich valley back onto the ridges where the vistas are endless and we can again see the coastal plain and the sky yawns in all directions. The combination of endless daylight and seemingly endless space is intoxicating.
The further east we get the more likely we are to see large groups of caribou feeding on the greening tundra and always walking and bleating. Many years they funnel into the very valley where we will be camped and we will be vigilant in our search for them.
Where there are caribou, there are those animals who live from their unwariness: wolves and grizzly bears. And where the two join, there are scavengers like fox, wolverine, and ravens. This is a trip with excellent potential for wildlife encounters. It is a great hike with or without caribou, but we will keep our fingers crossed and our eyes peeled.
Hiking in the arctic is an “off trail” experience, so a six mile day can take as long and be as taxing as ten miles in other parts of the world. The footing is a mix of dry tundra benches and gravel bars with various kinds of wet tundra mixed in. We will have to contend with some tussock fields but mostly the walking is flat and gravely. There is a single mountain pass to cross and several stream crossings so expect tired legs and wet boots daily.
This is a good trip for both experienced backpackers and newcomers to Alaska in good shape who are willing to push themselves. Experience with overnight backpacking prior to the trip is highly recommended. Each hiker will get 15-20 pounds of food and community gear to carry. Due to the small party size and the trip’s duration, expect to start the trip with a pack weighing no less than 45 pounds.