Gates of the Arctic – Marshall Route – Bouman

Gates of the Arctic – Marshall Route – Bouman

DATES

July 30, 2025 - August 8, 2025

REGION

Gates of the Arctic

TRIP COST

$7,400/ person. Party of 4.

calendar

DATES

July 30, 2025 - August 8, 2025
region

REGION

Gates of the Arctic
price

TRIP COST

$7,400/ person. Party of 4.

In the very heart of the Brooks Range lies a seldom explored mountain range full of glaciers, cliffs, quiet canyons, and adventure. Follow in Bob Marshall’s footsteps on this challenging backpacking route. Find solitude and beauty.

TRIP DETAILS

This challenging route penetrates the steepest and most spectacular portions of the central Brooks Range. Working ever northward from Bob Marshall’s “Gates of the Arctic”, to the lake that bears his name, before skirting precipitous canyons and jagged peaks to the unsung jewel of the region, Cockedhat Mountain in the extreme northeast corner of Gates of the Arctic National Park. The area is as beautiful as it is untraveled.

This route has a bit of everything, from wide open tundra valleys, to tight canyons and rocky passes. Glaciers, tarns, ice fields, and of course wilderness as far as the eye can see.

Starting at the limit of the great northern forests, the airplane lands us on the North Fork of the Koyukuk River between Boreal Mountain and Frigid Crags, the imposing peaks for which this 9 million acre national park was named. Clear waters of the river reflect the steely grey cliffs and the rich greens of the spruce, and a rainbow of colorful rocks shines in the riffles. The trip only gets better from here.

Walking is slow in the forest and packs are heavy at the start so it may take a couple of days to work up the Koyukuk to the mouth of Bombardment Creek in the shadow of Mt Doonerak. This is a great place for the first lay-over day which affords the opportunity for a hike into the high-country and a chance to swim in the high cirque known as Marshall Lake. This isn’t really a “rest day” but will be well worth the effort!

Then onto the Continental Divide far above the spruce forests. Another couple of days of walking, including negotiating a 2 mile canyon along the upper Koyukuk, brings us to a broad pass. At the top, we see the waters of the Koyukuk careening towards the Yukon River and the Pacific Ocean behind us. Ahead lies the Itkillik River and the Arctic Ocean beyond.

Once on the tundra and in the wide-open Oolah Valley, sight-lines are long and we spend more time scanning for wildlife. Small bands of caribou frequent the area in late summer, bears should be grazing on lush greens and ripening blueberries, and predators like wolves, and even wolverines may be spotted hunting in the mountains above. Moose, porcupine, and even lynx, animals frequently associated with the boreal forest, also inhabit the tundra so there is lots to see and we will keep binoculars at hand.

The scenery gets better by the day! Once we round the corner into the Cockedhat Valley your jaw hits the ground. There are hidden valleys with serene lakes, waterfalls, and slick-rock playgrounds; talus fields with house size boulders and sheer cliffs with enormous columns piercing the sky surround us as we climb into the high country full of hanging glaciers and bracingly cold tarns.

This is a challenging backpacking route with the opportunity for some BIG day hikes along the way. In a landscape without trails almost everyone is ready to drop packs at the end of a 6 mile day even though it doesn’t sound like its going to be very far. Packs are necessarily heavy on a long trip with arctic grade gear and clothing. The route we have planned has a huge variety of views and challenges, lots of river crossings, some epic bushwhacking, and wet tussocky ground. But also some sublime gravel bars and tundra benches where the miles will tick past quickly.

There are also several variations of the route including some options with epic (and untested) passes to negotiate. Refinements of the route are best done in the field based on the weather, your groups desires, and conditions at the time of your trip. Everyone on the trip should be in excellent physical condition with an adventurous attitude and the ability to be flexible as conditions change. The “Marshall Route” will be a real adventure for everyone.

Last updated: August 8, 2024

Itinerary

What follows is a general flow of events. Expect the unexpected and prepare to be flexible.

July 29

Meet your guide in Fairbanks for a pre-trip meeting at 4 pm.

July 30 - 31

Catch the morning “mail plane” to Bettles, AK, population 12! After visiting the National Park headquarters we load into a smaller plane and fly the final miles into the Brooks Range. After landing on a small gravel bar and unloading, the plane disappears and we are alone in the wilderness. If the weather allowed an early start we should be able to hike up valley for a few hours this afternoon.

The following day we work our way through the woods, through the river, through the tussocks, through the brush, back through the river and up to a wooded river bench near Bombardment Creek.

 

August 1

Marshall Lake beckons! Take the day to bushwhack and scramble into the high country towards Marshall Lake and take a bracing swim beneath the glaciers.

August 2 - 3

Packs are lighter now as we work towards the headwaters of the North-fork. Shortly after Bombardment Creek trees disappear and the country opens wide in front of us and excitement grows.

But before gaining the height of land the Koyukuk is deeply incised forming a twisting and dendritic canyon for several miles.

At extreme low water you can splash your way up the creek below the canyon walls. Typically we have to climb out early and skirt the edge to gain the pass.

August 4

From your camp there are several summits which beg to be climbed. Snowheel Mountain offers views to the south of ice and snow, but there are several other un-named peaks and ridge-line options which make for excellent day-hikes. Your desires, and the weather will inform and direct where you wander, but all the options are spectacular!

August 5

Northward. Enter the Oolah Valley, a sea of green surrounded by 350 million year old grey ocean sediments thrust into the pale arctic sky. We skirt the edges of the valley finding bands of dry ground and good walking. Stopping now and again to scan the valley for wildlife.

August 6 and 7

If you thought there was no place more beautiful than the Oolah Valley, no landscape more rugged and compelling than Marshall Lake, Cockedhat Mountain may change your mind. We think the valleys radiating from Cockedhat are among the most beautiful in Alaska and there is no end to the exploration we can do. We hope to have a full day to explore the high country without packs. There is no end to the hiking we can do here.

August 8

Alas, all good things must end. Weather permitting our plane arrives mid-day for the flights back to Fairbanks, landing back in the busy world in time for a shower and a late dinner.

rafters having fun in the Arctic

Such a joy to spend days where time was meaningless.  A wonderful adventure and I would like to return next year for a longer, more challenging trip.

You mentioned to me in an email that you have terrific guides – you do indeed.  Dave is a superb guide. He is personable, knowledgeable about the Arctic, and has excellent group management skills. I appreciated the time he spent teaching me to read the map, which is not easy without trails.   He allowed Adrian and me to hike at our own pace and he encouraged all of us to explore the area surrounding our campsites. I know the others would concur in my praise.

- Sandra, California, USA

DETAILS

WHAT'S INCLUDED

Transportation beyond Fairbanks

Food while in the wilderness

Stoves, cooking & eating utensils

Professional guide service.

Select Rental equipment is available through Arctic Wild and is included

WHAT'S NOT INCLUDED

Lodging

Non-camp meals

Personal clothing and gear per our Equipment List

Gratuity for guides

WEATHER & BUGS

A variety of weather should be expected including rainy periods and bright sunny conditions. Temperatures can range from in the 70’s down into the 30’s or lower. Snow is possible but unlikely to remain on the ground. Bug season is not yet over, so expect mosquitoes and gnats around. You should carry a head net and one bottle of insect repellent.

RECOMMENDED READING

Alaska Wilderness by Robert Marshall

Arctic Wild by Lois Crisler

Nunamiut by Helge Ingstadt

Make Prayers to the Raven, Richard Nelson

More Alaska reading is available from our Bookstore.

"The wilderness was spectacular, the leadership perfect."
"I am just finishing my tenth trip with you guys. As always, the trip was more than I expected and I had a great time. See you next year!"
"Of all outfitters with whom we have worked (and that is quite a number), you were by far the most organized and responsive."
"That feeling of wide open wonder, the possibilities for nearly limitless wandering, and the image of those proud caribou...that will stay with me a long time"
"Our guide was an encyclopedia on legs. He was always willing and ready to teach, to talk, to listen, to do another hike, or to lie low in camp if we were beat. He truly gave us the trip we wanted!"
client client client client client
Eileen - Canning River